I first went to Genova about 15-20 years ago when I was a teenager. I don't remember much, except that it was small and cramped and that there was a lot of meat hanging from the ceiling. The meat thing alone gave me the sense of authenticity; it wasn't what you saw at the other, tamer, delis.
Years later the deli moved down the street into a brand new, and much larger, space. Since then, I've eaten there many, many times, and they always seem to be busy. The place is very much an East Bay landmark.
But the other day, while eating a mediocre salami and cheese sandwhich, I started to question just why the hell this is.
I think that I, personally, was attracted to the old Genova authenticity and that's why I continued to go. Likewise, I think most people who go there do so because of reputation. But that authenticity isn't really there anymore. Hell, most of the employees are no longer even Italian.
But what really sticks out the most to me is the blandness of the food. I think that the most important characteristic of a deli should be the quality of the ingredients. Recipes don't really mean anything; after all, how many different ways can you make a salami and cheese sandwich? Genova makes them just like everybody else.
Which is fine. But what isn't fine is that their ingredients are just like everybody else's as well (the bread is particularly average.) All their sandwich food seems to be commercially processed and from huge companies. No different then what I would get from a deli in a mall.
Then there's all the imported packaged food that they sell. Olives from some huge pesticide-using conglomerate in Spain are still crappy olives, even if they are imported from Europe. This is California for crying-out-loud, why on Earth would we need to import crappy olives from Spain? I suppose they think that the imported olives lend them a sense of authenticity, but to me it just makes them seem fake.
Genova may be old-school, but unfortunately only in the negative way. They don't seem to be hip to the local, organic, fresh-food revolution that's been happening around them for the last 30 years. They could be selling Niman Ranch salami, Vital Vittles bread and Strauss Cheese. Then they would truly have great sandwiches.
And that's authenticity, not some newfangled California-thing. That's how deli's used to be. The food they sold was local, organic and fresh by default.
So avoid the lines at Genova and go find something truly great. Better yet, get a crispy taco down the street at the new Mexican joint. They have high-quality ingredients and authentic employees.





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